The islands are an erosion-resistant outcrop of basalt off the Northumberland coast. The group consists of 14 sizeable islands and numerous rocks, some of these are seen only at low water. To give an idea of scale, seven miles would complete a circumnavigation. The islands, a nature reserve of the National Trust, have no facilities and landing is allowed only on Inner Farne and Staple Island for a small fee. The attractions are the birds, (over seventeen species of seabirds breed regularly) the seals and the solitude. Images of the rugged islands and the sound of thousands of bickering seabirds will long stay in the visitorís memory.

Visiting sailors must be experienced and self-sufficient, this is no place to take liberties with. You must be able to navigate in poor visibility and carry water and provisions. Inshore weather forecasts should not be missed especially if you are staying overnight. Swell can be a problem and if the wind is between north-west and south-east swell will build up. Swell from the north may originate hundreds of miles away and may not diminish for two or more days after the gale has blown out. You should also be aware of fog associated with high pressure systems that pull air across the North Sea.

The islands are divided into two groups separated by Staple Sound. Both groups have a lighthouse.

The light on Inner Farne marks the inshore passage known as Inner Sound which is sometimes used by coasters. The inner group offers greater security and the only known anchorages. You will choose the best one according to the weather and sea

Conditions. The most favoured is The Kettle although even this can be bumpy at high water when The Bridge covers. The two moorings are laid for tripper boats out from Seahouses waiting to return their visitors on Inner Farne.

In settled weather a perfect anchorage can be found inside Knocks Reef. Everywhere kelp can foul your anchor but in daylight the bottom can be seen and you can drop the hook on a sandy patch. The only place Iíve seen yachts is in The Kettle. Note, a third anchorage is said to be in Stamford Haven.

The more powerful lighthouse is on Longstone. Currents can be strong off Longstone and tide rips can be hazardous. But in settled conditions the islands can be approached closely as there is usually deep water close in.

Shallow rocks will create turbulence and the experienced sailor will note their presence. The dinghy sailor may navigate through most gaps between the islands if (s)he has flat conditions and the nerve. Kelp fronds rise toward the surface in the crystal clear water but the careful sailor may pass through these areas at dead slow speed, prodding for bottom with the boathook. Mature kelp will be anchored up to 3.5m below. The area attracts wreck-divers out from Seahouses in rigid inflatables. One told me that the Atlantic Grey seals would follow him about and nibble his fins! You are unlikely to see newborn pups as they arrive in November but you should see some young from last year.

The site of the wreck of the Forfarshire, which led to the Grace Darling heroics lies on the western edge of Big Harcar.

Holy Island is 6NM to the north-west. Seahouses, with a small safe harbour 2NM to the south is a good place for: provisions, Post Office, cash dispensers and restaurants etc. The Harbour Master will not usually charge if you are in for just an hour or two. It is a lively town. In complete contrast Budle Bay 3NM to the west is a shallow sandy inlet, only accessible at near HW in calm conditions. It is another nature reserve with no facilities and a very peaceful night can be had dried out in Ross Low (the north-west corner).